Padlock Mahjong Solitaire

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About the Padlock Layout

The Padlock board draws the most familiar of security shapes: a solid, rounded square body sitting beneath an arching U-shaped shackle that loops up and back into the top edge. The body is the heavy part of the picture, a dense slab of tiles stacked a couple of layers thick in the middle to suggest the weight of metal, while the shackle is a thinner, single-file curve that rises from one shoulder, arcs over the top, and drops into the other. You read 'lock' instantly, and there is something satisfying about the two halves balanced around that central keyhole gap.

In play it lands at an easy-going two out of five, the kind of board you can clear with a cup of tea going cold beside you. The shackle is almost entirely made of free tiles from the very first move, so you are never short of options up top, and the body, while denser, is broad enough that exposed edges are plentiful. The difficulty, such as it is, comes from the stacked centre of the body rather than from any cruel pinch point. It rewards a relaxed, methodical pace more than clever sequencing, which makes it a lovely warm-up or a wind-down layout when you want progress without pressure.

Difficulty: Medium (2/5) | Tiles: 132

How to Clear the Padlock Layout

Start with the shackle. That arching loop is one tile wide for almost its whole length, which means nearly every tile on it has at least one open side and is free to take. Clearing the shackle early is pure profit: it removes a big visible chunk of the board, it never blocks anything below it, and it lets you concentrate the rest of the game on the body where the real stacking lives.

Once the arch is gone, work the body from its outer rim inward. The left and right edges of the rounded square, plus its bottom row, are your reliable supply of free tiles, so peel those flanks down evenly rather than digging a hole on one side. Keeping the two shoulders symmetrical matters here, because the shackle's old footprint feeds tiles back into both top corners and you want both corners staying open.

The crux is the raised centre of the body, the couple of stacked layers that represent the keyhole and the lock's mass. Those upper-layer tiles only become free after the tiles flanking them on the same layer are cleared, so resist the urge to chase a tempting match buried in the middle. Open the surrounding edge of each layer first, let the centre lift off naturally, and that pile dissolves without ever trapping you.

In the endgame you will usually have a small cluster around where the keyhole sat. The board guarantees a path home, so the only real risk is self-inflicted: matching away both tiles of a pair you needed as a stepping stone. When only a dozen tiles remain, slow down and check that any pair you take does not bury its twin. If you do stall, Shuffle re-deals the rest into a solvable arrangement, so the lock always opens.

The Story Behind the Padlock Layout

The padlock is one of those everyday objects whose silhouette has barely changed in centuries, and that is exactly why it works so well as a tile shape. Variations of the shackle-and-body lock have been forged since Roman times, and the form became a worldwide shorthand for safety, secrecy and the promise that something is being kept just for you. That cultural weight is why a padlock outline reads as more than a doodle; it carries a tiny story of a thing locked and a key still to be found.

There is a neat rhyme between the object and the act of clearing it. A padlock is a puzzle by design, a mechanism you solve to open, so a board shaped like one frames every match as another tumbler falling into place. The padlock has also picked up a romantic second life as the 'love lock' clipped to bridges around the world, giving this otherwise utilitarian shape an unexpectedly sentimental glow as you tease it apart.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Padlock layout good for beginners?

Yes, it is one of the friendlier boards. At two out of five difficulty it has lots of free tiles from the start, especially along the shackle, and no harsh bottleneck. It is a good place to learn the habit of clearing exposed edges before digging into stacked areas.

Should I clear the shackle or the body first?

Clear the shackle first. The arching loop is only one tile wide, so almost every tile on it is immediately free, and removing it never blocks anything underneath. Once the arch is gone you can give the denser body your full attention.

Why do some tiles in the middle of the body refuse to lift?

The centre of the body is stacked two or so layers deep to suggest the lock's mass. An upper tile only becomes free once the tiles beside it on the same layer are removed, so open the edges of each layer first and the centre will release on its own rather than staying trapped.

What happens if I run out of moves near the end?

Press Shuffle. It re-deals the remaining tiles into a fresh arrangement that is still guaranteed solvable, so you never reach a true dead end. The usual cause of a stall is matching away a pair you needed as a stepping stone, so slow down in the endgame.

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